Maryland Height's Guidebook

by Rob Savoye

Published by

Seneca Software & Systems

Copyright (c) Seneca Software & Systems

Dedicated to:

Ilchester Mountain Search and Rescue (IMSAR)

because somebody has to pick up the trash

Contents

• Photo with routes on it
• Forward
• General Information
• Parking
• How to get off the top of Maryland Heights
• Pitons, Bolts, Chalk, And Other Bullshit
• Free Camping
• Maryland Height's Rock Climbs
• Alphabetic Route Index
• Route Index by Difficulty

Forward

All the ratings are at the best a rough estimate usually agreed on by most of the people I've climbed with here. Some climbs are rated high, not because they are so difficult but because of the skill required to find any protection. At least the ratings can be used to compare between the other climbs here.

Beware of loose rock, not falling randomly, but because of tourists on top. The worst area for this is the "Gully" and the sign. Please for your own protection wear a helmet. If you see somebody throwing rocks, fill out a complaint form at the ranger's office. If enough of us complain eventually the Park Service will have to correct this problem.

General Information

Parking

Two, drive down from Harper's Ferry and go east on route 340 about 2 miles. Just after you cross the bridge into Maryland bear to your right up route 180. Make the first right past the liquor store. This is Sandy hook road. Follow this until you drive under the train bridge that goes between Harper's Ferry and the large tunnel. Continue past the old ruined building several hundred feet to a pullover on the right. Park by the old building at your own risk, it is subject to occasional rockfall.

How To Get Off The Top Of Maryland Heights

There are two ways to walk down. It's simplest to follow the blazed trail. The trail is quite broken in. A final way down is to downclimb "The Gully" to the ledge where "Baby Burn and "Cracking Up" start. Traverse the hill and downclimb easy steps to the pillar. From here just slide downhill. I do not recommend downclimbing the lower section of "The Gully". All the loose rocks from above get funneled down it. I usually only go down this way when I plan to climb in the area around the small pillar. It is, however, the fastest way down for an experienced climber.

Pitons, Bolts, Chalk, And Other Bullshit

On first ascents we climb hammerless. This has lead to a few epic problems on occasion, but we get by. If you decide that your climb (hopefully a first ascent) needs a pin or a bolt for your safety, put one in. But think, is it necessary? If you must place a pin, please leave it fixed for future ascents.

Second, the dark rock here is almost spotless. (no little white handprints) We would like to keep it that way. Several times during the summers the weather has been real hot. We have climbed during several record-breaking spells. (101 - 105 degrees) Several hard first have been done in this heat without chalk. If you must use chalk, use it sparingly.

Free Camping

Drive down route 340 into Maryland. Bear right onto route 180 after crossing the bridge into Maryland. Go past the liquor store and keep going past Sandy Hook Road until you have to go right and drive across the train tracks. Park in the obvious spot, there are usually several cars there. Follow the white blazes for the Appalachian Trail south (towards the river) Hang a right onto the dirt road. Soon you'll come to a stream that runs under a bridge. This water was drinkable last time I checked. There is a trail that follows the stream and ends down by the riverside. You can camp by the junction of the stream and the river. (sometimes this place is infested with bugs) Or, keep walking south on the dirt road about 1/4 mile past the stream. There will be a blue- blazed trail that heads left towards the river. This is a C&O Canal and AT trail shelter. It has four walls and two doors. This is a reasonably good spot. The fishing here is decent.

The next spot is easy to get to from Harper's Ferry. Drive past the ranger's office to where the road ends by John Brown's Fort. Make a left. Follow this past the train station and the old power plant. Camp anywhere you feel comfortable. I usually camp near the ruined dam. This is also the same road that goes to John Brown's cave.

Finally, drive from Harper's Ferry to route 340. Just uphill to your left is a dirt road. Follow this past the house and the sewage treatment plant. After you cross the tracks, camp anywhere. Sometimes the road past the tracks floods, but the best campsites are all the way at the end.

If you need a real campsite with showers and hook-ups, there is a KOA on route 340 between Harper's Ferry and Charlestown.

Maryland Height's Rock Climbs

B (5.3)

Start

Walk about 40 feet up the ravine that starts by the tunnel and the two train bridges. On your right is a shelf about 2 feet wide that angles up to a large corner. Scramble across the shelf and belay at the bottom of the right facing dihedral.

Pitches Descriptions

1. Climb up the vegetated corner to any of the several trees. (90 ft.)
2. Climb the thin finger crack in the overhang. (70 ft.)

First Ascent

Unknown

Variations (5.1 - 5.2)

Since this is really just a large friction wall, one can climb up anywhere on the face. The protection isn't as good though. On the 2nd Pitch one can climb the edge to the right of the overhang, or traverse left to a large ledge that is 20 ft. below the 1st belay ledge on "A" climb.

A (5.1)

Start

Walk to the top of the large ravine used for "B" climb. Start at the point where the ravine comes from the rock.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up the corner until you reach a large ledge with a tree with many rappel scars. (90 ft.)
2. Continue up the corner and into a chimney. At the top of the chimney traverse right onto the face and continue to the top. (70ft.)

First Ascent

Unknown

Variations (5.1 - 5.3)

Since this is another friction wall, one can climb up where-ever one wishes. Once out of the corner the protection gets a little thin.

C (5.4)

Start

From the top of the ravine, walk left. Follow the trail to the rock and scramble left under an overhang. Stop when you can look up and see the sign.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up the short wall covered with thorns. Follow the grassy ramp to its top.(100 ft.)
2. Climb up the easy ledges to a small cave.(20 ft.)

First Ascent

Unknown

Variations (5.4)

From the belay on the top of the ramp traverse right a few and climb up the corner. (35.ft)

Hard-up (5.7)

Start

Walk 20-25 feet further up the ramp at the bottom of "C" climb.. The start is an inside corner facing right with an overhang that starts about 15 feet above the ground.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the inside corner to the overhang. Traverse right and around the corner. Belay at the old pitons below the white smear on the rock. (40 ft.)
2. Climb up the ramp that goes to the bottom left corner of the sign. Then climb straight up the left side of the sign 15 feet and traverse left to the edge. Climb up easy rock to the large ledge. (65 ft.)
3. Do the last Pitch of "D" climb. (20 ft.)

First Ascent

Unknown

Note

An excellent winter climb.

Hard-up Direct Start (5.5)

Start

There is a corner about 10 feet from the start of "C" climb.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the face (5 feet wide) to the right of the inside corner. Climb up the ramp until you can climb a short wall to the belay stance below the sign. (30 ft.)
2. Finish on hard-up.

First Ascent

Unknown

Hard-on (5.8)

Start

The 2nd belay ledge for Hard-up.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the crack splitting the overhang. (20 ft.)

First Ascent

Alex Badart, Dennis Greenwell 1984

Note

The protection is great.

The Sign Route (5.9)

Start

Do the 1st Pitch of Hard-up. Climb the 2nd Pitch of Hard-up but stop at the lower left corner of the sign.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Follow the cracks to the middle of the sign. Continue up and right to the small cave at the top right corner of the sign. (40 ft.)

First Ascent

Unknown

D (5.4)

Start

Continue walking up the ramp from "C" climb until you are in a wide grassy spot.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the corner until a large platform covered with loose rocks is reached. (80 ft.)
2. Climb the chimney above the pine tree. (20 ft.)

   Most people stop in the large chimney 20 feet above the belay stance. You can either walk up the chimney (watch for broken glass) or climb up the right wall to a summit.

First Ascent

Unknown

Note

This has been used as an early lead for many new climbers.

Dee's Rival

Start

From the middle of the belay ledge.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up a few feet then traverse right a few more feet. Climb up the face about 4 feet left of the edge. Belay at a small ledge with a good crack and a little tree. (80 ft.)
2. Climb straight up to the overhang and follow the crack as it goes up and right. Finish in the large chimney at the top of "D" climb. (20 ft.)

First Ascent

Rob Savoye, Bob Chandler May 1979

Note

The protection on the first Pitch is extremely thin.

Variation

From the 2nd belay stance it is possible to traverse right and climb a short finger crack. This is much more fun than the usual way.

Hairy (5.6)

Start

From the left edge of the belay stance.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up a few feet to the right of a large flake. Belay at a good ledge with a tree that is about 20 feet below and 20 feet to the right of a large overhang. (80 ft.)
2. Climb up and left to the overhang. Pull the overhang on its right side and continue up the face 10 feet to a tree. (35 ft.)
3. Traverse right to a pine tree near the top of the rock.

First Ascent

FA - Rob Savoye, Tim Newberger April 1978

First Free Ascent

Rob Savoye, Bob Chandler April 1979

Note

You'll see how this climb was named when you pull the roof.

Variations (5.6 - 5.9)

By wandering around the face and climbing up through all the blank spots there is some great bouldering on the 1st Pitch. From the top of the 2nd Pitch it is possible to continue straight up the corner. Pull any of the overhangs anywhere for a real good finish. This is better than the wimpy 3rd Pitch.

Cakewalk (5.2)

Start

From the left of the same belay ledge as used above.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up the easy flake to a large ledge. (50 ft.)

First Ascent

Dru Marshall, Paul Clancy April 1983

Boob Killer (5.5)

Start

From the top of Cakewalk.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb straight up from the right side of the ledge. Weave back and forth through the overhangs. (80 ft.)

First Ascent

Rob Savoye, Scott McClurg, Joanne Macaluso July 1983

Note

The most rotten, miserable climb at the Height's.

The Other One (5.7)

Start

Where the ledge intersects with "The Gully" there is an obvious friction wall.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb straight up the middle of the wall. (35 ft.)

First Ascent

Rob Savoye May 1985 (Toprope)

Baby Burn (5.8)

Start

5 feet to the left of "The Other One".

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb to the small ledge at the bottom of the friction wall. Follow the thin crack up and to the right past a very small tree. (35 ft.)

First Ascent

Rob Savoye, Mike Carroll July 1983

Note

The protection is almost non-existent.

Bacon And Egg (5.7)

Start

Same as "Baby Burn".

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb to the same ledge near the bottom of the wall. Climb straight up and pull the overhang. (35 ft.)

First Ascent

Rob Savoye, Scott McClurg August 1983

Note

The protection is a little better.

Cracking Up (5.10)

Start

Walking from "The Gully" towards the pillar there is a left facing corner. The left wall of the corner is split by a thin vertical crack.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Without using the right wall or the corner (Carderrock style) climb the thin well protected crack. (30 ft.)

First Ascent

FA - Rob Savoye, Scott McClurg Sept. 1983

Yellowjacket (5.6)

Start

On the far right hand side of the wall.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the crack to the top. (25 ft.)

First Ascent

Scott McClurg, Rob Savoye, Paul Clancy Sept. 1983

Good Guess (5.8)

Start

On the left side of the wall.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the crack to the top. (30 ft.)

First Ascent

Dru Marshall Sept. 1983 (Toprope)

Puyk (5.5)

Start

From the middle of the wall.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up the crack past a small ledge to an overhang. Climb up by going around the left side of the overhang. (70 ft.)

First Ascent

Dru Marshall, Rob Savoye, Mark Pence Sept. 1983

Note

This climb is 5.6 if you finish by climbing the crack in the overhang.

Wasted (5.5)

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the left facing corner on the left side of the wall.

Surprise ! (5.6)

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the crack to the right of "Wasted".

Deceptive (5.7)

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up between the two cracks that merge together in the middle of the wall.

Frenzy (5.4)

Start

From the up river side of the pillar.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb up the slightly overhanging wall to a vertical crack. Climb the crack to the top. (70 ft.)

First Ascent

Alex Badart, Dennis Greenwell 1980

Sunshine Daydream (5.2)

Start

From the side of the pillar that faces Harper's Ferry.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb straight up to the top. (75 ft.)

First Ascent

Rob Savoye, Scott McClurg July 1983

Note

An enjoyable but easy climb.

Bullshit Five-one (5.1)

Start

From where the trail meets the rock on the down river side of the pillar.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the crack and the left edge to an overhang. (20 ft.)

First Ascent

Unknown

Sick Pursuit (5.11)

Start

Below Jefferson Rock in Harper's Ferry is a big 12 foot roof.

Pitch Descriptions

1. Climb the crack up the short wall and out the overhang.

First Ascent

Rob Savoye May 1985 (Toprope)

Alphabetic Route Index

• A (5.1)
• B (5.3)
• Baby Burn (5.8)
• Bacon And Egg (5.7)
• Boob Killer (5.5)
• Bullshit Five-one (5.1)
• C (5.4)
• Cakewalk (5.2)
• Cracking Up (5.10)
• D (5.4)
• Deceptive (5.7)
• Dee's Rival (unknown)
• Frenzy (5.4)
• Good Guess (5.8)
• Hairy (5.6)
• Hard-on (5.8)
• Hard-up (5.7)
• Hard-up Direct Start (5.5)
• The Other One (5.7)
• Puyk (5.5)
• Sick Pursuit (5.11)
• The Sign Route (5.9)
• Sunshine Daydream (5.2)
• Surprise ! (5.6)
• Wasted (5.5)
• Yellowjacket (5.6)

Route Index by Difficulty

5.1

• A (5.1)
• Bullshit Five-one (5.1)

5.2

• Cakewalk (5.2)
• Sunshine Daydream (5.2)

5.3

• B (5.3)

5.4

• C (5.4)
• Frenzy (5.4)
• D (5.4)

5.5

• Hard-up Direct Start (5.5)
• Wasted (5.5)
• Puyk (5.5)
• Boob Killer (5.5)

5.6

• Hairy (5.6)
• Yellowjacket (5.6)
• Surprise ! (5.6)

5.7

• Deceptive (5.7)
• Hard-up (5.7)
• The Other One (5.7)
• Bacon And Egg (5.7)

5.8

• Hard-on (5.8)
• Good Guess (5.8)
• Baby Burn (5.8)

5.9

• The Sign Route (5.9)

5.10

• Cracking Up (5.10)

5.11

• Sick Pursuit (5.11)

Unknown

• Dee's Rival (unknown)