THE HST UNDERGROUND CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO SS L FF S S L F S L F S U U GGGG AA RRRR L OO AA FFFFF S U U G A A R R L O O A A F S U U G GG AAAA RRRR L O O AAAA F S S U U G G A A R R L O O A A F SS UUUU GGGG A A R R LLLL OO A A F MM MM T M M M M T M M M M T M M M TTTTT N N M M T NN N M M T N N N M M T T N NN M M TTTTT N N :: And other areas... Mark Kochte 04-19-93 ========================================= =Mark's Guide to 'Hidden' Climbing Areas= ========================================= 10th edition, updated 09-13-93 (photos to be available someday) List of Areas covered: ---------------------- Sugarloaf Mtn Middle Earth The Pillar Prow Wall Devil's Kitchen White Rocks Annapolis Rocks South End Faint's Roof Argo Rock Great Falls, Va REM Wall Amphitheater Wall Catoctin Mtn/Cunningham Falls State Park Rocks State Park Ilchester & Friction Slab (not yet covered; indexed, though) Leakin Park (not yet covered) Frederick Watershed (not yet covered) There is other climbing in and around Baltimore, but not all of it has been documented fully (or at all) at this time. Further editions of this Guide will fill in some details, and expand to other areas. DISCLAIMER: This 'guide' was put together with the intent to lead the user to lesser-known climbing areas in the Baltimore/Washington DC vicinity (primarily Baltimore, as this is where the author lives). Many of the routes described herein have been climbed in the past before the author (and friends) knew of their existence, but very little is known about the history of the routes (and climbing areas) themselves. Thus many of the names in this guide were given to the routes by the author and his many climbing partners. Much delving has been done to determine the history of these climbing areas, but only a few 'real' route names were dug up. The following list of route names are 'real': Black Crack, Faint's Roof, and Nixon's Nose at Annapolis Rocks, Butterfingers, Rhythm Roof, and The Prow at Sugarloaf, and all the routes at Rocks State Park, Ilchester, and Friction Slab. All others have origins with the author and friends. The tallest climbing may be found at Rocks State Park, where routes can reach upwards of 80' for top-roping, and where there exists a few two-pitch moderate grade lead routes. Friction Slab area offers bolted lead routes, though all can be top-roped. Annapolis Rocks has moderate to tall cliffs (~50-70') and are mainly top-roped, but can be led as the rock structure is quite Gunk-like. Most of the other routes are small, short crags that see very little traffic (except Ilchester, which gathers crowds from the Baltimore area on weekday afternoons). It is hoped that this guide will enable to user to seek out and explore new climbing areas different from the 'standard' Carderock/Great Falls visits. Please report any new route information, or any updated information regarding the routes herein (such as grade correction, names, etc), to the author. Happy climbing! - Mk ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: The original intent of this guide was just for it to be a little 'rag' guide for a few of us to identify a couple of areas that do not or did not already have 'official' guidebooks to them. However, in the course of a couple years this guide has grown significantly in size and scope, and has expanded from covering one or two crags to include quite a number of climbing areas (it is still not completed; won't be for a while yet it appears). A good many people were instrumental in assisting in the 'development' of some of these cragging areas, verifying or double-checking things for me, or pushing me to continue to work on it when things seemed to stagnate, and it is unlikely that this guide would have grown to the size it is without their help and/or input. The following is an incomplete list; my apologies to anyone I did not get on here (yet). My thanks to all. Eddie Bergeron Corinne Derderian George Chapman Jen Christensen Chris Claytor Dave Crowther Dave Mackintosh Anne Gonnella Sharon Jacob Clark Merrill Heather Preston Merle Reinhart Lee Roderiguez Bob Scott Robert Scumaci Wynn Segal Ellen Swartz *************** *Sugarloaf Mtn* *************** To get here, park at the West View parking lot. Take the yellow trail, right of the concession stand. It's a 6-7 minute hike on average (your mileage may vary). Shortly after you pass a small bench (on the right), and almost immediately before you get to the stairs, veer off right into the overgrown tree-populated scree field. The MIDDLE EARTH cliffs are right here. There is a 3rd/4th class scramble up to the right of Revelstone, between Revelstone and Rock With A View. Bring long runners, or short/medium/long runners and medium-sized pro (tri-cams, hexes, nuts, Friends) for anchoring. There are hefty trees and boulders in this area, but they are rather far back from the cliff edges. MIDDLE EARTH: ============= (first rock outcropping) ------------ Cording Traverse 5.1/5.8 ~xx' ................. Climb crack structure to right of Bloodguard, traverse until under Bloodguard overhangs; pull overhangs (5.8); can use same set-up as Bloodguard, but watch pendulum. The traverse under the overhangs is ~5.3 or so. Optional set up directly over route, then can pull the roofs/ overhangs early (5.?; Cording Direct). Other (easier) variants possible to right (~5.1) Cording 5.2-5.5 ~20' ........ Climb crack system to right of Bloodguard--once up to the overhangs/roofs, step right and follow the crack to the top; can utilize large tree directly over route for anchor for set-up (use slings). The climb can be made harder by initially avoiding the obvious crack and working the thinner crack and face below and right of main crack system (5.5 at best). Bloodguard 5.9+** ~40' ........... Smooth 'blank' face with quartz veins, just below double roof; uses long runners off of trees; climb face using flakes, nubs, edges, cracks--whatever! Keeper of the Cheese 5.9* ~40' ..................... Climb the face inbetween Bloodguard and WQW, without using any Bloodguard holds, and only the right edge of the WQW crack, finishing on WQW through roof. Use same anchors as for WQW. White Quartz Wielder 5.8* ~40' ..................... Wide crack to left of Bloodguard, pull roof to right of small crack under roof; use same set-up as Bloodguard (drop anchors just off to left side of nose over roof, by crack). The Lemon Merchant 5.10 ~40' ................... Climb the lichen-covered face to the left of WQW to the top, using only the left edge of the WQW crack and any available face holds (less than there first appears to be); Going through the roof on the left of WQW adds at least one grade level; use same anchors as WQW, or set up further to the right (from on top) by about 5-10 feet or so. (second rock outcropping) ------------------ Go Ballistic 5.10* ~30' ............. Climb the shadowed face left around the corner of Butterfingers, right from the 4th class scramble to the upper part of the crag; the direct start requires two dyno moves, the first to a great horizontal hand/finger lock, the second to a smaller fingerlock not quite so close (larger dyno); the first dyno is up an overhanging wall, the second starts from under an overhang and finishes on an almost pure vertical surface. After that follow the rock to the top; can use same set-up area/ block as Rangers (same webbing and all, just drape over to right side instead of down front of rock, as facing out). Note: using flake or any handholds around the 4th class breakdown area, or any holds off the left off the main wall is considered 'off-route', and reduces the grade to about 5.9+ or so. Butterfingers 5.8 ~50' .............. Climb left-most line/crack through series of multiple overhangs/ roofs to left of large imposing roof immediately left of Seven Wishes (stand on 'nothing' to get past second overhang); use *long* sling (40+') for anchor around huge block, plus some moderate slings and pro (large nuts, other med-sized stuff) for backups, draping over nose and not down crack. {Right Variant} (5.10?) ................ Climb the initial part of Butterfingers. After surmounting the first awkward overhang, somehow get turned around and face to the right corner. Follow this corner up and through another overhang, using a partial thin fingertip layback at one point. Continue either up right or straight up. Then handholds get better the further up the route one goes.... Revenge Of The Spider God 5.6/7 ~20' .......................... Climb up corner/right-leaning slab to huge overhanging roof left of Seven Wishes; traverse right over to finish on Seven Wishes; watch for the spiders (they bite). Finish on either Seven Wishes, or continue and complete Rhythm Roof (5.9). Seven Wishes 5.7-* ~50' ............. Climb notch and crack to right of first set of imposing roofs, first rock set past Bloodguard & White Quartz Wielder; 50 feet; the Direct Start begins at the lowest level, and is about 5.7-; the rest of the climb is ~5.6(+?); follow crack to top; use medium-length slings (~6-10 feet) and med-pro (#3 Tri-cam and #7 hex work perfectly) for anchors. Or use *long* runners from trees. Rhythm Roof 5.9 ~50' ............ Climb Revenge Of The Spider God until under the huge roof, just left of Seven Wishes. Without going over onto Seven Wishes, traverse under and pull the roof directly, 5.9 (there are handholds; just need to look around and feel). Go to top on buckets. Cave ~30' ..... To the right of Seven Wishes is a cave-like feature, wide at the bottom, constricting near the top. Many 'locals' use this to gain access to the upper portion of the cliffs in this area. {unnamed} ~5.8 ~35' .......... This is the blocky overhang to the immediate right of the Cave. Climb up under the roof-like protrusion, traverse right, up face, then left over the roof (there are no known holds to pull the roof directly). Then up the face for ~10' or so. The climbing essentially ends at this point with 3rd and 4th class scrambling to the summit. Can use the tree and boulders used for A Flake Called Lee for anchors. Bring *long* runners/slings. (around the corner, ~30 feet right of Seven Wishes) --------------------------------------------------- A Flake Called Lee 5.5 ~25' ................... Climb first finger/hand crack, passing by huge right- facing flake; around corner past huge downward flaring chimney; climb over after about 20 feet, but can finish on a 5.1 (5.2 if try to make it really hard) slab/crack system; long to medium length runners, using tree and med-sized pro for anchors. (unknown) (5.10?, contrived = 5.11??) .......... Climb the face between the two major cracks, right of A Flake Called Lee and left of For Short People Only, using neither crack as a hand or foothold (can use thin crack partway up second half of climb just right of Flake Called Lee); delicately dance up the face, using small holds and technical skill; the first block is 5.10/5.10+, and the second is 5.11 or so at the last moves (where each 'block' is half the route, bisected by a slanting horizontal crack; use same set-up as Flake Called Lee and For Short People Only. Exclude the obvious holds to the left and right and the route becomes ~5.11 or so (contrived, naturally). For Short People Only 5.3-5.5 ~25' ...................... Climb *wide* crack that spilts up the middle of the slab, left of a prominent roof and layback flake dihedral; climb as a chimney or offwidths when necessary; climb ends after 20 feet (can finish off on 5.0-5.2 stuff); use same set-up as A Flake Called Lee. THE PILLAR ========== Fine Young Edgeables 5.5? ..................... Find prominent crack that splits one side of The Pillar's face; climb face to right of large crack; use med-sized pro and short/medium runners for anchors. Little Herc 5.9* ............ Start of the prominent crack that splits the Pillar on one side--after sur- mounting overhang, the route is done; finish on Fine Young Edgeables; very short climb/boulder problem; has a 5.10 Direct Start just right and lower around the corner; use same anchors as for Fine Young Edgeables. Pebbles And Bam-Bam 5.4 - 5.7? ~40' .................... Pebbly-looking wall to the right and around the corner from Little Herc. Climb up anywhere on this face. Cruxes near bottom and top. Climbing in the middle is fairly straightforward and easy. Use medium slings and pro (or long slings and trees) for anchor systems. [there are other routes here, but not yet fully explored] PROW WALL ========= The Prow 5.10 ~35' ......... Largest very prominent roof sticking out from the right end of this wall. Climb up under the roof, then work the left portion under the roof. Working the right is easily a grade harder (5.11?). Pull roof and head to top. The Prow, Left Side 5.7 ~35' .................... Climb left half of main face directly under major Prow Roof. Once at roof, work way onto face left and above roof. The face above the roof is where the climb develops character, being a bit thin (5.7). It is possible to explore the roof itself from this route, but to do the roof is 5.10++ (good hold out at edge/lip of roof, but getting to it is a problem). Anchors consist of long runners, using both natural rock and pro in cracks. The Prow, Right Side (5.10/5.10+ - ~5.11)* ~30' ..................... Climb the right corner of the main Prow pillar, working to the right as necessary. Go up, then angle left through a thin face. Continuing out to the left edge of The Prow (above the roof) is about 5.10(-) or so. Continuing straight up from the corner after the jog right is about 5.10+. If climb the right corner directly up through the right face above the roof is ~5.11 or so. Same runners can be used as above Prow routes. (5.easy) ............. The face to the left of The Prow has a large number of vertical cracks in it; many routes (both 'real' and contrived) exist here, but none have been explored at this time. ~30 foot routes. Long webbing protects off of trees and a few *large* boulders nearby. Mostly easy to moderate routes. Starts are generally the hardest part. ............ Just left of are a few roofs of varying heights and sizes with cracks that run to the top (routes 25-30 feet high). Three routes have been explored (one is a variation of another): Time Of The Prophets (5.6/7*), Road To Redemption (5.8, or harder, depending; *?); variation of Time Of The Prophets), and Wish You Were Here (5.9*). There are still a couple of lines unexplored as of yet... Indiana Mark Vs The Weather God 5.3/4 ~30' ................................ Wide crack immediately right side of first roof to left of The Prow. Work crack and face at leisure. Time Of The Prophets 5.6* ~30' ..................... The 'second' roof left of The Prow, smaller than the first roof left of The Prow; Climb up until under the roof, reach up the left side for a flake in crack, pull; finish by following crack to top (easy). Long runners of up to 25' in length can easily be used for anchors. Road To Redemption 5.8* ~25-30' ................... Same roof as Time Of The Prophets, and is basically a variant to get around roof; climb up to under roof, reach way right and up for a handhold, pull roof--good luck with the feet Using the left corner of the block that forms the roof for a left handhold to pull the roof makes it ~5.8; harder if not used After pulling the roof, stay right and make a few delicate moves up face/crack until easier climbing is reached (about a body length and a half); finish going up crack (no fair 'cheating' and using cracks to either right or left, either, after pulling roof). Interesting problem to work out, especially if eliminating the left balance handhold for pulling the roof. Dave's Route 5.8? ~25' ............. Climb the narrow face between Time Of The Prophets and Wish You Were Here, without using either crack (but can use edges of face). Contrived. Tricky balance move onto face itself then mainly 5.4-5.6 moves the rest of the way. Can use Time Of The Prophets anchors, or set up different ones. Wish You Were Here 5.9* ~25' ................... Roof to left of Time Of The Prophets. Climb up right crack and left-facing (AND overhanging) wall through V-notch; work feet Handholds are all there, and are great, but are reachy at times (especially the beginning; short people will probably find this harder). Finish by going up the easy crack. Long slings protect off of trees at top; be sure to hang it a little low.... {unnamed} 5.8/5.9 ~25' .......... Wide crack in roof to left of Wish You Were Here. Surmount overhang, squeeze through short (~6 feet long/tall) wide crack (almost off-widthy), finishing off on easier ground. Can use same anchors as Wish You Were Here, but watch that rope doesn't get caught in a crack, which makes belaying a pain... DEVIL'S KITCHEN =============== The following area is just west of the East View parking and overlook. Makes for a nice picnic area (has a number of picnic tables) and there are boulders all around. Find the overhanging wall facing the road. To the left and around the corner is Mottled Wall (recognizable from the orang-ish mottlation that covers the right half of the wall, and by the huge crack that splits the wall down the center). -------------- Pacemaker 5.8/5.9** ~25' .......... Face to right of hand crack that splits the middle vertically; variation to far right same difficulty; use long runners for tree and med pro for anchors. Slow And Easy 5.7* ~30' .............. Jam crack in center; use long webbing for tree and med-small to small-large pro (#9 hex, #4 Tri-cam) anchors; jam up crack (very similar to TAD at Devil's Tower, Wyoming). Slippery Doo Dah (5.11+?) ~20' ................. face left of Slow And Easy crack; use long webbing off of tree and med pro for anchors; use razor blade edges and slopers to go up short face. ************* *WHITE ROCKS* ************* One of the large peaks north of Sugarloaf Mtn, but some 300-400 feet lower, White Rocks is a spur from Sugarloaf Mtn proper. It is located roughly 2-3 miles away from Sugarloaf Mtn. Take the Blue Northern Peaks Trail (5-mile loop trail), going west of the main parking lot (trail shortly turns northward). Hike along for a couple of miles to reach the White Rocks. Alternatively, continue west past the main entrance to Sugarloaf Mtn, turn right on Mt Ephraim Rd, then follow it up a ways (1.5-2.0 miles) until you come to the North Peaks Trail trailhead (~0.2 mile past the concrete tarmac that appears out of nowhere on Mt Ephraim; most of the road is a dirt/gravel road). Park somewhere on a nearby pulloff (there is NOT a lot of parking; only enough for a car or two, so large groups should attempt to carpool as much as possible). Hike up the trail for nearly 20 minutes to get to the rocks. You will approach the rocks from behind. To the left are a series of boulder problems that you can explore, ranging from fairly easy to fairly hard. Most problems are very short, one or two move in difficulty. To the far right as you exit the main trail are the taller cliffs (30-50'). There are a number of routes here ranging from relatively easy (5.2) to fairly difficult (5.12). Long runners will suffice for anchoring off of hefty trees. The routes are listed from right to left: Green Thumb 5.9? ~30' ............ Climb the overhanging green lichen-covered wall at the far right of the main climbing area of White Rocks, just right of an imposing roof. Exit wall just right of the roof and finish on Lucifer. Lucifer 5.10/5.11? ~30' ........ Immediately to the left of the green lichen wall is a semi-cave with a blocky roof. Climb the down-sloping shelves to the left of the roof, stretch, leap, or how-have-you to the roof itself, swinging to the far right wall and pull the roof. Finish through another overhanging section to a lichen-coated ramp. Lucifer Direct 5.11(?) ~30' ............... Instead of stretching right, go straight up through the roof to the top. Lucifer, Left side (5.11??) ~30' ................... Instead of pulling the roof, climb the down-sloping shelves, then move left and up the face, finishing on Lucifer. Tom Wanted It 5.10 ~25-30' .............. Between Lucifer and Sugar & Spice is a bulging wall. Climb up between two boulders to the wall. Moving left and follow the crack up until it is possible to reach a ramp to the right. Traverse right and up, using a heelhook if necessary, until above the gap between the two boulders. Continue to top. Tom Wanted It, Right Side 5.10 - 5.11 ~25-30' .......................... Same start as TWI, but move right after getting through the two boulders. Work up and left on thin finger edges through the overhanging wall (warning: one of the 'good' holds is about to break off!). Finish in same area as TWI. Tom Wanted It, Direct 5.11 - 5.12 (?) ~25-30' ...................... Same start as Tom Wanted It, but instead of moving left or right once through the gap between the two boulders, go straight up through the overhang to the top. This route has not seen a successful ascent to date, so the rating is speculative. Sugar & Spice 5.2* ~20' .............. To the right of the main White Rock face is a jumbled corner. Start atop the large boulder just below the corner. Clamber up the shelves jutting out to the right of the corner. Feels harder because it overhangs. Phasers On Stun 5.4* ~20' ................ To the right of the main White Rock face is a jumbled corner. Just to the left of this corner, on the main face, is a left-arcing flake/crack system. The routes starts atop of a large boulder right below the corner. Follow the flake/crack up and left, exiting below a small pine tree. Dogs Of War 5.11(+?) ~35' ............ Climb the wall to the left of Phasers On Stun, to the right of the shortish roof in the lower center of the main face. A shorter and easier start begins at the start of Phasers On Stun, and traverses up and left on the main wall along a leaning shelf/crack with good holds. When the good holds run out, go up. Enjoy the extremely needle-sharp finger pocket above this section. (unknown) 5.11++ - 5.12 (?) ~35-40' .......... In between Dogs Of War and Force Ten. Climb through the right side of the overhang at it's widest point, using underclings initially. Surmount the overhang and continue up the blank face. This route has not yet been successfully climbed yet, so the rating is speculative. Force Ten 5.10(b/c?)** ~40' .......... In the lower center of the main face is a small roof/overhang. Climb left side of roof/overhang, then angle for blackened area halfway through The Sherpa Connection. Finish on The Sherpa Connection. Force Ten Direct Finish 5.10? ~15' ........................ Instead of exiting on The Sherpa Connection from Force Ten, continue on up the face on thin holds to the top. The Sherpa Connection 5.8** ~35-40' ...................... A long, right-leaning diagnol hand-crack that splits the main face. Start lower left and work along the crack, frictioning and edging feet as need be. Where Eagles Dare 5.10(c/d?)* ~35' .................. Not quite halfway along The Sherpa Connection is a line that shoots straight up, following a thin finger crack through a slightly bulging face. Surmount the bulge and finish on easier ground. Where Eagles Dare, Direct Start 5.10c/d ~35' ................................ Instead of beginning with The Sherpa Connection, start on the main wall directly below the thin finger crack of the upper part of Where Eagles Dare, to the left of the black area on The Sherpa Connection. Tricky feet at the start. Guns of Navarone 5.10d* ~45' ................. Start on Force Ten, traverse left approx 10', finishing on Where Eagles Dare. {unknown} (5.11?) ~35' ........... To the left of Where Eagles Dare is another face climb. Start at beginning of The Sherpa Connection and move basically up, staying left of WED. Has not been climbed yet, so the rating is speculative. Gap Of Rohan 5.5/5.7? ~50' ............. To the left of the main face of White Rocks is a wide gap with a tree growing out of it. Below this is a thin finger/hand crack at the right end of CST Wall. Start in this finger/ hand crack and work your way up through the wide awkward split Good lead; accepts small pro below, large pro (#4 Camalot-sized) above. Crux of the lower section is ~5.6/7; above is about 5.5 or so. Climber Sensitivity Training Wall 5-5.10* ~25' .................................. A small 25' face down and left of the main WR face; has a white vertical streak running down the center. Routes vary from 5.5 to 5.10 or harder. Generally the routes are harder to the left, easier to the right. Moving though the white streak itself is about 5.10, using no holds far left or right. Using said holds, or traversing left or right makes it about 5.8. Near the right edge of CST Wall is the start of Gap Of Rohan (~5.5/6). [pillar above] (5.?) ............... Above CST Wall is a overhanging pillar which most of the routes on CST Wall can finish on. Can be set up seperately, as there is a large sloping ledge seperating CST Wall and the pillar. The pillar is ~20' high, and forms the left side/wall of the upper half of Gap Of Rohan. There are a number of boulder problems strewn throughout the area here. The above listed routes comprise the main climbing potential of White Rocks. Note that the heights may be off by as much as 10' at this time, and the ratings by as much as a grade (especially if you are taller or shorter than 'average'). Future trips will quantify things better. Also be aware of glass at the bottom of the cliffs from bottles tossed over the top by non-climber-types. An effort is being made to clean the area up, but it is an ever ongoing process. Also be aware that tourists coming to check out the view of the valley may toss/throw rocks over without ever realizing that there are climbers down below (just because you may have highly visible anchor rigs doesn't always mean anything; one afternoon the author and some friends had four top-ropes rigged, and someone chucked a hefty rock into the woods just behind where they were all climbing--fortunately no one was hurt...). ***************** *ANNAPOLIS ROCKS* ***************** Located on the Appalachian Trail, about 2 miles from the Rt 40 parking area. Follow the main AT northward until you come to a major path to the left (there should be a sign above indicating ' <--- Annapolis Rocks and Spring'). This will bring you to a nice camping area, and a nice view to the west-southwest. The far southend climbs are far to the left. Argo Rock is at the right extreme end. The path dumps you out near the Faint's Roof area. The spring is located ~100 yards to the left, along a path back from and above the cliffs. South End: ========== Illusion 5.8 ~50' ......... Annapolis Rocks, south end climb, right of Black Crack (5.9), left of 'cave'; use long, long webbing (30-50+ feet) off of trees. Black Crack 5.9 ~55' ............ Annapolis Rocks, south end climbing. Prominent black streak follows a loosely-defined crack up a 'blank' overhanging face. Very arm-ie. Use long, long webbing for anchors to 'nearby' trees. Faint's Roof (somewhere in the middle, ~20-30 yds from where trail ends): ========================================================================= Faint's Roof (5.10*) Large roof w/crack left of Nixon's Nose (aid route) (A?) Aid route that goes through Faint's Roof to right; pitons Nixon's Nose (5.9*) triple overhanging route, with an easy roof finish (unknown) (5.3-5.5) just right of Nixon's Nose, variable lines, easy overhangs (unknown) (5.4-5.8+) wall ~40' to right of Nixon's Nose; variable lines Argo Rock (far north end) (aka, The Prow?) ========================= {unnamed} 5.8* ~35-40' .......... Annapolis Rocks, north end climb; use medium & large pro and medium length slings for top anchors; climb the center of the 'blank' wavey face to the roof, pull the roof. Puppis (5.10b?) ....... Annapolis Rocks, north end climb; use medium & large pro and medium to long (~15-30 feet) slings for top anchors; climb directly up the arete, pulling the arete's roof as the initial move (5.10b); after pull- ing the roof the climbing is about 5.5 or so. Keelhaul Traverse 5.1 .................. Annaoplis Rocks, north end climb; start left of Puppis and traverse right under the Puppis roof to the broken face right of the Puppis arete. {unnamed} (5.3/4-5.9) .......... Annaoplis Rocks, north end climb; similar anchors as Puppis; climb any of a variety of lines up this broken featured face; be warned that what is obvious for a hold usually isn't, and what isn't usually is. #5.9 version--start in the center of the face, travers- ing left as soon as possible, then climbing up *next* to Puppis; the crux begins shortly after starting up next to Puppis. #5.5 version--start the 5.9 version, but continue the traverse to the Puppis arete. #5.3/5.4 version--start in the center of the face, but work the broken crack going up to the right through blocks to the top. #5.6/5.7 versions--do anything other than the above... *********************** *GREAT FALLS, VIRGINIA* *********************** There are already guides to the climbing in and around the Great Falls region, but there are a couple of easy-access walls that have been overlooked for one reason or another. These are covered here... REM Wall ======== (located midway between Juliet's Balcony and Dike Creek, around the corner from Dike Creek) [full details unavailable at this time; please note that there are a handful of routes ranging from ~5.4 to 5.10/11. Need long slings to set up anchors. Only able to climb this area when the water is down; otherwise....wet feet]. [note: REM stands for Robert, Ellen, Mark, for being the 'first group' to climb in this area] Amphitheater Wall ================= Located off the Carriage Road trail to Matildaville is a grassy meadow partially surrounded by a short wall. There are not many routes here, and most all are short (less than 20-25'), but the area does offer alternative climbing when the river-side routes are all taken! Or when the Potomac is flooded so much that many of the river-side routes are underwater. The routes range in difficulty from 5.2 to 5.9 or so (maybe a 5.10 or two around). The 'main' area has a tree right at the edge of cliffs to rig a short toprope anchor to (to set up one can either climb the 5.4 route to the right, diagnoling to the tree, or bushwack around the far right up to the top). Bring a frisbee to play in the meadow. Bring a blanket to lay in the sun. Bring a picnic to munch on while watching everyone else climb... *********************************************** *Catoctin Mountain/Cunningham Falls State Park* *********************************************** Catoctin Mtn/Cunningham Falls is located off of Rt 15, north of Frederick ~10 miles or so (probably less). Climbing in Catoctin Mtn is restricted. The park rangers wish for you to check in prior to going out, and you must have a helmet for every member in your party (well, this was a park rule as of 1989; things may have changed since then). There is climbing located within these parks, but there is nothing documented. Many 'hidden' areas are located within the woods, with Chimney Rocks and Bob's Hill [left path] Overlook being just a couple. Cat's Rock has only scrambling with maybe a couple boulder problems (nasty landings, though). Wolf Rocks has some scrambling and boulder problems, but nothing tall. Other areas are unexplored at this time, and await documentation. ****************** *Rocks State Park* ****************** There is plenty of climbing in and around the King and Queen's Seat area located in Rocks State Park (which is located ~50 miles north of Baltimore). A 'real' guidebook is currently in the works by some of the original climbers. Most of the routes here are of high quality; very few 'average' routes exist. Sample of notable routes in Rocks State Park: Main Wall: ---------- Piney (5.9+/5.10) right of Vertical, up corner to flat roof with split crack Vertical (5.6*) prominent left-leaning crack/flake system through easy overhangs Mike's Finger Buckets (5.10*) short 'boulder problem' left of Vertical Breakfast of Champions (5.11*) contrived route left of Mike's Finger Buckets Superbulge (5.12*) bulging wall right of right-facing corner Breakaway Right (5.9+/5.10**) climb corner to roof/chockstone, move right & up Breakaway Green Scar (5.10b/c*) follow green path to right of chockstone roof Breakaway Left (5.9*) climb corner to chockstone roof, move left and up The Pillar: ----------- Strawberry Jam (5.8*, w/5.10* variant) prominent left-leaning hand-crack Creakin' Eyelids (5.10/5.11) face to left of Strawberry Jam {unknown} (5.5/5.6) blocky stuff opposite side from Strawberry Jam {unknown} (5.1/4th) easiest route to pillar top to set up top-rope anchors Upper Wall (all short): ----------------------- Virgin Crack (5.6??) smooth, parallel right-leaning crack Goblin Eye (5.9) overhanging face to left of Virgin Crack Epitaph (5.9?) overhanging face left of Goblin Eye King & Queen's Seat: -------------------- routes from 5.5 to 5.11+ Moby Dick Wall: --------------- {unknown prow} (5.9) ILANA'S GUIDE TO CLIMBING SHOES FOR EVERYBODY, YES THIS MEANS YOU: Level: Beginner Novice Competent Expert Who: Your SO who thinks Has actually Knows who Derek Friends *are* you're crazy, but climbed on rock, Hersey and Derek Hersey is willing to try knows what Christian Griffith and Christian it. 'friends' are. are. Griffith. Does: Climbs 5.4, eyes Climbs 5.9, still Climbs 5.11, no Solos 5.11. closed, screaming. screams sometimes.more screams. Shoe Cuts off fit: Comfortable. Snug. Tight. circulation. Size: Same as sneakers. A size smaller. Would fit Would fit a Cinderella. four-year-old. How: Arms give out long Feels good to Loosens shoes at Must soak feet before feet hurt. take them off at each belay stance. in hot tub at end of day. end of 1 pitch. Quote: "Are you *sure* "I bet I'd climb "I bet I'd climb "Could you look I'm not going to 5.10 if my shoes 5.12 if my shoes and tell me if kill myself?" were tighter." were tighter." my feet are still there?" ______________________________________________________________________________ - compliments of Ilana Stern, Cliff Swallow of Colorado Route Index Route Name Rating -------------------------------------------------------- SUGARLOAF MOUNTAIN: Cave........................................4th Cording Traverse............................5.1/5.8 Cording.....................................5.2-5.5 For Short People Only.......................5.3-5.5 Indiana Mark vs. The Weather God............5.3/5.4 Pebbles And Bam-Bam.........................5.4-5.7(?) Fine Young Edgeables........................5.5? A Flake Called Lee..........................5.5 Time Of The Prophets........................5.6* Revenge Of The Spider God...................5.6/5.7 Seven Wishes................................5.7-* The Prow, Left Side.........................5.7 Slow And Easy...............................5.7* Butterfingers...............................5.8 Dave's Route................................5.8 Road To Redemption..........................5.8* White Quartz Wielder........................5.8* (unnamed)...................................5.8 (unnamed)...................................5.8/5.9 Pacemaker...................................5.8/5.9 Rhythm Roof.................................5.9 Keeper Of The Cheese........................5.9* Little Herc.................................5.9* Wish You Were Here..........................5.9* Bloodguard..................................5.9+** Go Ballistic................................5.10* The Lemon Merchant..........................5.10 The Prow....................................5.10 Butterfingers, Right........................(5.10?) (unknown)...................................5.10/5.11 The Prow, Right Side........................(5.10/10+ - 5.11-)* Slippery Doo Dah............................(5.11+?) WHITE ROCKS Sugar & Spice...............................5.2* Phasers On Stun.............................5.4* Climber Sensitivity Training Wall...........5.5 - 5.10* Gap Of Rohan................................5.5/5.7? The Sherpa Connection.......................5.8** Green Thumb.................................5.9? Force Ten...................................5.10b/c** Force Ten, Direct Finish....................5.10? Where Eagles Dare...........................5.10(c/d?)* Where Eagles Dare, Direct Start.............5.10c/d Guns Of Navarone............................5.10d* Tom Wanted It...............................5.10 Lucifer.....................................5.10/5.11? Tom Wanted It, Right Side...................5.10/5.11 Lucifer, Left Side..........................5.11? Tom Wanted It, Direct.......................5.11 - 5.12 (?) Dogs Of War.................................5.11(+?) (unknown)...................................(5.11??) (unknown)...................................(5.11 - 5.12 ??) ANNAPOLIS ROCKS Keelhaul Traverse...........................5.1 (unknown)...................................5.2-5.8+ (unknown)...................................5.3-5.5 (unnamed)...................................5.3/4-5.9 Illusion....................................5.8 (unnamed)...................................5.8* Black Crack.................................5.9 Nixon's Nose................................5.9* Faint's Roof................................5.10* Puppis......................................5.10 (aid route).................................A? GREAT FALLS, VA Amphitheater Wall...........................5.2 - 5.10 REM Wall....................................5.4 - 5.10/11 CATOCTIN MTN/CUNNINGHAM FALLS [none available] ROCKS STATE PARK (unknown)...................................4th/5.1 (unknown)...................................5.5/5.6 Vertical....................................5.6* Virgin Crack................................5.6(?) Strawberry Jam..............................5.8* Breakaway Left..............................5.9* Epitaph.....................................5.9 Goblin Eye..................................5.9 Breakaway Right.............................5.9+/5.10* Piney.......................................5.9+/5.10 Mike's Finger Buckets.......................5.10b* Breakaway Green Scar........................5.10b/c* Breakfast Of Champions......................5.11* Creakin' Eyelids............................5.11* Superbulge..................................5.12* ILCHESTER Beginner's Corner...........................5.4 Beginner Route/Slab.........................5.4 (Crack).....................................5.6 Double-O....................................5.7 Renaissance.................................5.8* Blue Rose...................................5.8(+)* Midnight Lightning..........................5.10* Ninja.......................................5.11 FRICTION SLAB Friction Slab...............................5.10 - 5.11(?) (unknown)...................................5.9* (other bolted routes from 5.9 - 5.hard)